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We've chosen to cover this rather tricky proposition near the end of this section  because camouflage painting requires using an airbrush, and this technique is costly, and requires more advanced painting skills. 

Most professional model makers work with airbrush, but these are expensive, and require a fair bit of practice in order to achieve proper technique.  The standard airbrush assembly is comprised of a compressor, a long tube connected from the compressor to the brush, which has a small container of paint attached to its underside.  Airbrushes work on the same principles as spray paint cans, but are much more precise; you can even draw very thin lines using an airbrush,  and create larger patterns that fade seamlessly into one another.

Some people use compressed air cans in lieu of a proper compressor which can deliver a steady flow of 30 psi (pounds per square inch).  This technique is not recommended, as it is not suited for precision work, and can get quite expensive in the long run.  The airbrush itself should be of the internally atomizing kind, again, this makes for much more precise control, as your paint is mixed with the air inside the body of the airbrush.

It's also a good idea to thin out your paint so that it sprays much finer, you may want to experiment on old botched up kits, or plastic surfaces before attacking your model, and when you actually work on it, work slowly, and in layers, allowing each coat to dry before moving on to the next.

Some camouflage pain jobs will be easier than others, with some patterns represented as sharp lines, and others showing subtle fading between sections.  We recommend you take the time to find the actual patterns and color charts of the planes you are working on.  take time to research every detail of the aircraft you are working on.  

Solid patterns can be created by simply cutting frisket paper or masking tape into the desired shape and applying it very firmly to the area you wish to cover.  Exercise caution when removing the tape, as it may damage the paint if pulled too quickly.

Faded lines require you create gobos using, and making little stand offs out of LePage's "Blue Tak", that clay-like rubbery stuff used to hang posters; the advantage of using this material is that it will not leave any residue on your model.  Paint within the masks very carefully, avoiding drips and discrepancies within the fades.  The size of the standoffs you make is really important, as it will determine the "focus" of your fades.  Be consistent. 

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